Tom and I both like fishing.I'm really the angler in the family,he's into diving and likes to get in with the fish.Since I had the travel rod with me ( it had already caused me enough problems getting it here) I intended to use it. However, the shallow reef in front of the resort extended for several hundred metres before dropping off into the deep blue water beyond and it would be impossible to cast a line out that distance.The answer was therefore to get hold of a boat to take us out there.I asked Yves,our host, if he could arrange a fishing trip with one of the local fisherman we saw fishing off the reef everyday.He agreed to ask one of his neighbours to take us out into the deeper water.
The day arrived.We were to meet our fisherman at the little cove in front of our bungalow.The time was set for 10am.Having heard from friends who know the Philippines well that things are not as simple there as they first appear,I was not surprised when the fisherman didn't arrive on time.Finally, after an hour's wait in the hot sun, the guy finally arrived at 11. with a small outrigger canoe which looked as if it had seen better days. We inspected the boat and decided that since the wind was freshening and the sea beyond the reef was becoming decidedly choppy,we asked our new friend if he could get hold of a slightly larger,more seaworthy craft.He looked at us quizzically but finally admitted that he had a newer, bigger boat further up the beach.He agreed to return with it within the hour.
We waited again in the hot sun and an hour or so later he reappeared paddling a newer, freshly painted canoe but which was no bigger than the first!
Tom is solidly built,muscular, a sportsman and I weigh around 80kgs.The little fisherman was slightly built weighing no more than 60kgs. The boat was perfectly suited to his slight build and weight but with our combined weight of over 200kgs it was obvious that the outrigger would struggle to get us out into the deeper water.
Apprehensively, Tom and I settled ourselves on the canoe. I say 'on' because although our little friend sat himself neatly in the bow,we couldn't because it was too narrow for us to fit ourselves inside; it was so narrow. The little guy obviously saw the problem and produced two short planks which he placed across the gunnels.They were meant for us to sit on!
The trip out over the reef was uncomfortable as the little canoe headed into the surf breaking over the edge of it further out. But it was nowhere near as uncomfortable as it got when we approached the deeper water beyond it. The reef began to fall away and the sea bed began to disappear into the deep blue depths.The wind started to pick up too as we left the lee of the shore encouraging the bigger waves to break over the gunnels and bow.As I've said, Tom is a diver and used to going out to sea in boats but it was obvious that even he was now getting jittery.It was becoming obvious now that within several minutes we would be swamped by the bigger waves and so we signalled to our friendly fisherman that we wanted to go back in before we all ended up in the water.
And so we never got to test the fishing potential of the Philippines.Paying the fisherman, or rather his mother who was waiting for us when we got back the 300 pesos we had agreed upon and adding a tip of another 100 for his trouble we returned to the bar for a beer.
Later, I told Yves of our experience and he was obviously disappointed for us but he didn't seem surprised. He explained that the locals were not used to taking visitors out fishing in their boats.They fish alone, often miles offshore in their small canoes which are perfectly suited to their small stature and slight frames.I suggested that there seemed to be a great potential for them to supplement their meagre incomes by taking visitors fishing, particularly the Japanese and Chinese who are coming to the Philippines in increasing numbers these days.All that is needed are slightly bigger boats. With a bucket of bait provided, they could expect to triple at least their weekly income.Yves agreed but told me although he had suggested this to them, they seemed happier with their present lifestyle. Reluctantly, I had to agree.The people who live in their small bamboo and palm huts around the resort with their fruit trees and neatly planted vegetable gardens and chickens and pigs seem happy with their lot. Investing in bigger boats seemed to them to be an unnecessary expenditure I suppose.Yves suggested that an enterprising European with a pension which would allow him to live like a prince might find it a great business opportunity.I'm still tempted!
After our abortive trip,Tom and I decided to visit some caves nearby and at least he got to swim in the dark underground pool and I found another species of bird, the Swiftlet which nested there in some numbers.
The next day we returned to Cebu and on to Hong Kong.Tom to work and me to continue my Asian experience.We got up at 5am after a fitful night's sleep and met Yves on his veranda for coffee. He took us back across the inlet and dropped us at the pier in Tagbilaran.After a quick farewell and the formalities in the
booking office we boarded the catamaran and were soon speeding westwards to Cebu.
The Philippines was a wonderful experience, the resort, the friendly people and the very welcome sunshine made this trip memorable.One day I shall return.
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